It was a complete accident that we ended up traveling Beartooth Pass out of Yellowstone’s Northeast into Red Lodge, Montana.
We wanted to find a quick route to head to the main highways leading into the Upper Midwest. It was certainly a harrowing experience that we will not forget, considering we had a gas tank on empty and this year the road was barely open early June, with walls of glaciers on all sides.
Hidden Places in America’s Rugged West
To find Beartooth Pass, a section of Route 212 between Cooke City and Red Lodge, Montana, and how it leads to a mountain town nestled by rocky towering peaks in all directions was exhilarating. Backstory, I didn’t adventure at all as a child, not even a local camping trip, so these American treasures are another level of magic to me. Simple skiing just anywhere is another magical adventure to me, because Sprinterdad taught me to ski at the age of 34 when he taught our daughters.
So I could spend the rest of my life finding the new routes on wheels and skis, and each one sparkles, the bright side of having a truly deprived childhood. Happily, Beartooth Pass leading into Red Lodge, Montana has both. In our story, we didn’t know we were headed up to nearly 11,000 feet nearing nightfall with no fuel. So it had a stressful twist. But the upside to the story is we now know about the Beartooth Basin Summer Ski Area, on Twin Lakes Headwall within the rugged Shoshone National Forest.
Beartooth Pass is Legendary
Beartooth Pass, Montana. We did not look closely at the topographic map leaving Yellowstone onto Beartooth Highway, and just jumped into the unknown. That left us finding Beartooth Pass, with 12,000-foot peaks and 70-mile views, completely unprepared. It is dubbed one of the most challenging routes in the U.S. Bonus tip: no gas stops. So don’t be dumb like us and drive up on close to empty. Fill up in Cooke City.
If we had foresight (or internet connection) we also could have read the web postings that advised how to prepare before traversing Beartooth Pass. I mean, Beartooth Highway is so special it even has its own website. Deserving, as it is the highest elevation highway in the Northern Rockies. To be fair, if we had better internet connection in Yellowstone, we would have also seen those wicked jagged topography lines on the route that would have made us at least contemplate, is this really a short-cut on our long road trip, or a passageway into a whole other reality?
Red Lodge: A Merry Mountain Town
In hindsight, we were super lucky it was open and passable in mid-June. And lucky it was nightfall and not pitch dark by the time we finished. We lived to tell the tale and discovered Red Lodge, Montana. A town of around 2,000 souls. Spectacular views, rushing mountain streams, white snow contrasted with the dark green evergreens and bright summer sun. And summer skiing! And incredibly family friendly establishments, like Red Lodge Ales Brewing Company, and people to boot.
Red Lodge Ales, was a dream come true after surviving Beartooth Pass while running on fumes, nearing nightfall. The waitress, who landed in Red Lodge, from another far away place, told us that the locals call the Brewery ‘the local babysitting center.’ Kids are welcome to jump around the game table area, laugh and play all they want. Even the gruff-looking guy chugging a fresh pint of beer at the bar smiled when our youngest daughter with some serious pent up energy from the drive, jumped up on the bar stool next to him. Plus Red Lodge Ales offered the best kids finger foods! Giant pickles for $2 and pickled eggs for $1. I’m coming back just for the pickled eggs. Serious stamp of approval.
Onto the Upper Midwest
The Upper Midwest brought much more leveled adventure, just like the landscape. Reunions with family and friends, Pipestone Quarry National Monument, the Little House on the Prairie historic sites, the Headwaters of the Mississippi, where you can walk across the mighty Mississippi.
More to come in our post on the National Parks of the Charming Upper Midwest.
